Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerDecember2001

 

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Feature Article

Y2Beer -- The Year in Review - January 2001

Let's call 2000 the year that craft beer renaissance finally came of age. Entering its third (more or less) decade of existence, the craft brewing industry in North America seems to have overcome both the high expectations of the early years and the disappointments of the late 1990's, and finally settled contentedly with the idea of creating good beer for people who appreciate it.

     Elsewhere in the world, news arrived with a similar ring to it. Amid the doomsday predictions of industry collapse came reports of new breweries sprouting up across Europe and Asia. There were still "bad news" reports such as the (hopefully temporary) disappearance of Thomas Hardy Ale, but these were tempered by impressive new brews and the tenacious survival or even blossoming of old favourites.

     The year past was also one of big brewery consolidation, led by the rapacious appetite of Interbrew, which soared to the status of the world's second largest brewery. As I read report after report on this big brewery taking over that one, I couldn't help but respond with a big yawn, wondering why in heaven's name I should care which megacorporation was in charge of producing boring lagers and ales for the masses.

     Some of the highlights and lowlights of the year that was:

Harbinger of Good Things to Come -- Phil Baxter's good beer initiative at the Sheraton Four Points Hotel at the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) has garnered significant media attention and prompted Starwood Hotels to contemplate the roll-out of the program to other properties. They should.

Happy That I Tasted -- 17-year-old Stille Nacht (De Dolle Brouwers, Belgium); Horny Devil (AleSmith Brewing Company, San Diego, California); Blanche Aux Agrumes (La Barberie, Québec City, Québec); Jeffery Hudson Bitter (Oakham Ales, Cambridgeshire, England); Final Absolution (Dragonmead Brewing, Warren, Michigan); Jenlain Bière Blonde Spéciale (Brasserie Duyck, Jenlain, France); Westvleteren 12 served over ice cream! (St. Sixtus-Abdij; Westvleteren, Belgium); and of course, this year's Taste of the Year.

Sad That I Tasted -- Peach Brew (Buffalo Brew Pub and Billiards, Swift Current Saskatchewan); Doc Otis' Hard Lemon Malt Beverage (Anheuser-Busch, USA); Belle-Vue Kriek (Interbrew, Belgium).

Most Impressive Beer Dinner -- For the annual Book and the Cook Festival, Philadelphia's Monk's Café served up a five course meal accompanied by a dozen fabulous lambics, and threw in Michael Jackson for good measure.

Most Underachieving Beer Dinner -- Also during the Book and the Cook, the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology hosted a fund-raising reception and dinner featuring many industry notables roasting the good Mr. Jackson. The evening's three course meal, accompanied by seven brews, was enjoyable, but a bit disappointing considering the $150 price tag for the event. (See Jackson Roasted Over Easy for details on the night.)

Most Obnoxious Beer Ad -- The Bud "wassup" boys. My answer: Nothing, now go away.

Best Beer-Focused Trip -- My tour of brewing abbeys in Belgium was a trip that every beer aficionado should try. (See Ten Days in Belgium for more on this.)

Most Depressing Beer Trip -- Touring British Columbia while researching the new Great Canadian Beer Guide (due out this spring). The province that was home to Canada's first modern craft brewery and North America's first brewpub is now awash in a sea of mediocre beer. Thank goodness for Storm, Crannóg, Sailor Hägar's, Spinnakers, Longwood, Fat Cat and a handful others who still seek excitement in beer.

Nicest Monk I Ever Misled -- Kurt, the young novitiate at Westvleteren, who was a model of hospitality even as I lied my way into his monastery.

Enough Already -- Okay, hemp beer was pretty cool the first eighteen times we encountered it, but the novelty has worn off. As one brewer said to me: "I don't put rope in my beer."

Most Encouraging Trend -- Quality organic beer that actually has flavour.

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