January 14, 2003 -- A visit from my west-coast brother-in-law is always a good excuse to pull out a few special brews. Shawn is an enthusiastic ambassador of good beer, and when possible, I like to find some rare, aged or unusual ales and lagers to taste with him any time he lands in my neck of the woods. On the occasion of his most recent visit, the focus beers came from my cellar and included two bottles of Thomas Hardy's Ale, one dated 1992 and the other 1994.

The younger of the two ales was by consensus the less interesting. Which is not to say that it was dull, just that, even at eight years of age, it was underdeveloped. The nose of the deep brown ale was rich and plummy, with loads of muddled fruit and hints of mint and cocoa powder. In the body, the immaturity of the ale was more obvious, with a syrupy texture and strong notes of mapley malt dominating the date, raisin and faintly salty background. The finish continued thick and rich and fruity, assuring me that, as my notes from the night state, even at this mature age the beer has only begun to develop.

The 1992 vintage was testament to the difference a couple of years can make. Notably lighter in colour than its younger kin, the '92 had some notes of tanned leather and resinous herbs on the nose, along with fainter suggestions of raisin, chocolate and mint. The body showed some sweetness but was notably more complex than the '94, with bitter chocolate, dried fruit and earthy and herbal notes on display, along with some obvious alcohol. The finish held chocolate mint with warming alcohol. As good and well-developed as this beer tasted, I felt it could have easily taken some more age.

I have still in my cellar Hardy's from 1991, 1993 and 1994. Based on this tasting, I've decided that it is going to be a good long time before they see the side of a beer glass.

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