Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerJune2008

 

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Kitchen Table Tastings

Low Carb = Low Taste

December 10, 2003 -- Reading my weekend paper, I come across a story about the new wave of low carbohydrate beers in Canada. (If, it should be added, two releases can be called a 'wave.' Ontario's Sleeman Breweries launched the country's first low carb brew, Sleeman Clear, this past summer, and Labatt has followed with the recent introduction of their version, Labatt Sterling.) Perusing the piece and chuckling softly at the always ludicrous 'me, too' side of beer marketing, I come to the line where someone named Roland Semprie, the co-owner of Toronto's Totumlifescience fitness clubs, is quoted as saying that "People want more options (in beer), but they don't want to sacrifice taste."

Excuse me? My experience with low-carb beers has been all about sacrificing what little taste one still finds in mainstream beers. Even the category entry of Sleeman, a regional brewery that still produces one or two brands with significant flavour, has so little actual taste that I highlighted it in the TOTM for October its near-complete absence of character. (Please see http://www.worldofbeer.com/totm/totm-200310.html for more on that.) If Labatt's version is all about not sacrificing taste, then I want to try it.

So I pluck a bottle from the six-pack that Labatt kindly sent me as samples, refrigerate it and pop the cap once it's sufficiently cool. And then…nothing. Or at least damn close to nothing -- a faintly sweetish aroma, a mild hay-like flavour and just forget all about aftertaste. If this is Mr. Semprie's idea of not sacrificing taste, then I'd hate to be invited to his place for dinner.

(Later, reading the Labatt press that accompanied my six-pack, I find Mr. Semprie quoted liberally throughout, which might explain his overall positive view of the product.)

Until some brewer can prove to me otherwise, then, I can only conclude that where beer is concerned, low carb necessarily equals low taste. And in fact, reading Kelly Alexander's piece on Atkins-friendly foods in Slate (http://slate.msn.com/id/2082965), this situation appears to be the rule rather than the exception for all low carbohydrate fare.

Think I'll stick to real bread, real beer and real flavour.

Search The Real Beer Library For More Articles Related To: Labatt, Sleeman

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