December 3, 2001 -- The gold-stencilled, 750ml bottle implies that this is a beer a bit beyond the norm, an idea confirmed by the footnote to the ale's name -- 'Very Special Tenth Anniversary Reserve.' (As with the text on many of this Montréal-area brewery's brands, this sounds much more impressive in French -- "Grande cuvée du dixième anniversaire.")

But it's one thing to say that a beer is special, quite another to deliver on the promise.

The approach to Unibroue 10 certainly suggests an exceptional brew. Its colour is an attractive light-to-medium gold, and I picked up a multitude of aroma notes in the fruity-spicy nose, including black pepper, lychee, yellow plum, pear and coriander. All in all, I was reminded of a more alcoholic and fruity Duvel. A good start.

In the body, however, I felt that this beer let me down. I tried Unibroue 10 three different ways: as an after-dinner drink, an aperitif and with a meal of Atlantic salmon baked with capers, onion and lemon juice. In each instance, I was left wanting more from the ale -- more flavour, more complexity, better structure. About the only thing I didn't want more of was alcohol, which the 10% alcohol by volume Unibroue 10 shows in spades in its finish.

What is in the taste is a light, fresh and flowery sweetness leading into a sweetish, spicy body holding notes of coriander and pear drop candy. Also present is a slightly lactic flavour that carries through to the big, alcoholic finish.

The first bottle of this ale was enjoyed with friends and elicited no resounding accolades from around the table, as one might expect a 'Very Special' beer to do. The second was supped with my wife before, during and after dinner, and while it did garner more laurels from Christine than from me, it didn't exactly astound either of us. Personally, I would have been just as happy with an Eau Bénite or Trois Pistoles.

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