Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerApril2001

 

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Taste of the Month

Taste of the Month - April 2001

While at Premier Gourmet the afternoon of the Brewery Ommegang dinner (please see this month's Feature Article), I had a chance to swap tasting notes with Lyle Ostrow, beer manager for the store. Mid-way through our chat, he suddenly raced off to grab a bottle of something he said I would be very interested in sampling.

     As it turned out, Lyle was making the understatement of the year. Because the bottle he held upon his return was a 17-year-old Imperial stout by the name of Courage, a classic of the style discontinued years ago by the Brit brewery, Scottish & Newcastle.

     It would also be an understatement to say that the beer had held up well through the years. From the complex, nuanced aroma of treacle, raisin, prune and mild barnyard to the still lightly fruity front, the bold, molasses-y and faintly smoky middle and the dark chocolaty finish with light notes of tanned leather, the ale was a masterpiece. In fact, the appearance of fig and other fresh and dried fruit notes in the body convinced me that the Imperial's case mates -- wherever they may be; this was Lyle's only bottle -- have still plenty of aging potential in them.

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