Over the past few years, I have developed a keen interest in and appreciation of those spirits produced through the distillation of the vintner's left-overs -- grape skins, seeds and pulp. Once little more than country fire-water, the wine-maker's equivalent of moonshine, these clear alcohols have for more than a decade been developing an air of respectability, even high style. And the most stylish of them all is Italian grappa.
My fascination recently led me to Bassano del Grappa, a delightful and picturesque town seated at the base of Monte Grappa, a northern Italian mountain in the upper reaches of which distillers once plied their trade in secrecy. There, I sat down for lunch with Jacopo Poli of the Poli Distillery.
An affable, energetic man, Poli was as generous with his time as he was with his knowledge. During my stay, I received a crash course in the history of grappa, learned the different ways it is distilled, discovered that there is a much wider variety of grappa than I thought available, and grew to accept the idea that the spirit could be served on the rocks or even in a cocktail.
The highlight of my day in Poli's company, however, was the tasting of six of his grappas, or more precisely, four grappas, one wine brandy and one grape brandy. (The difference is significant: as the names would suggest, wine brandies are distilled from wine, grape brandies from grapes and grappas from the skins, seeds and pulp.)
While I enjoyed each of the products, the one I brought home with me was the Sassicaia, a cabernet grappa aged for five years in oak. Light gold in colour, it has a perfumey aroma holding notes of Madagascar vanilla bean and chocolate. The start is sweet and a bit herbal, but yields to a more fruity, balanced body with some wood notes and a hint of cocoa on the finish. Truly a delightful grappa, and moreover one which will tempt you to rethink all your preconceptions about the drink.
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