Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerMarch2004

 

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Taste of the Month

Schaffbrau Feuerfest - March 2004

A February visit to beerbistro by a wine journalist friend yielded an unanticipated bonus -- an 18-year-old bottle of Schaffbrau Feuerfest, a German doppelbock for which he once acted as importing agent and which he now presented to me as a gift. With a declared alcohol content of over 10%, it certainly appeared to be a worthy candidate for the cellar, but with also the low hop content typical of a doppelbock and no yeast in the bottle, questions were likewise raised.

     Turns out, the Feuerfest had withstood the passage of time most gracefully. With a deep brown hue and almost non-existent carbonation, the doppelbock offered an aroma rich with chocolate and molasses, backed by hints of clove, black pepper and anise. Its body hinted of the same elements right from the start, with gentle chocolate notes blossoming into a richer, very dark chocolaty, brandy-ish character, with prune notes and some faint oily smokiness. The finish was very gentle, with light chocolate and lingering brandy-ish alcohol.

     I've been more impressed by the complicated aromas and tastes I've found in other aged ales and lagers, but there was still something about the Feuerfest I found very attractive. Call it an elegance or a distinguished character, but even without boldness or huge depths of flavour, the appeal of this almost two-decade-old beer was very real.

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