Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerMay2004

 

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Taste of the Month

Russian River Brewing - May 2004

A trip in mid-April took me to California wine country and the brand new incarnation of the Russian River Brewing Company. Run by the talented Vinnie Cilurzo and his lovely wife Natalie, the former Korbel Estates-owned Russian River has found new life as a brewpub in the Sonoma County town of Santa Rosa. There, in the heart of downtown, Vinnie has resumed production of such highly regarded Belgium-inspired ales as the dryly fruity Damnation, the clovey Salvation and the softly tannic and almost quenching Perdition, as well as his innocent-looking but seriously hoppy double IPA, Pliny the Elder.

     What caught my attention, however, was the Russian River IPA. Seldom have I come across an India pale ale with such remarkable balance, in which notes of soft-flesh fruit (peach, apricot, a little red plum) smooth out and complement a leafy and citrusy hoppiness and gentle spiciness. This is a beer for everyone who claims that IPAs need to assault the palate with bitterness, and the perfect tonic for the end of a long day spent sampling wines.

Tastes of the Month

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